Kitchen Sink Dimensions: Single, Double and Undermount Sizes in Australia
A standard single bowl kitchen sink in Australia measures 400 to 560mm wide and 180 to 220mm deep. A standard double bowl runs 760 to 900mm wide. Before you pick a finish or bowl count, the dimensions have to match your cabinet, your benchtop and your plumbing rough-in. Get those wrong and you're either cutting stone twice or returning the sink.
All measurements below are in mm. We've cross-checked the compliance points against NCC 2022 Volume Three (the Plumbing Code) and AS/NZS 3000:2018 (the wiring rules). Installation has to be done by a licensed plumber.
Jump to section
- Kitchen Sink Sizes at a Glance
- Standard Kitchen Sink Dimensions in Australia
- Dimensions by Sink Type and Configuration
- How Deep Should a Kitchen Sink Be?
- Material and Gauge: What's Worth Knowing Before You Measure
- Matching Sink Size to Kitchen Layout and Benchtop
- Clearances, Tap Holes and Wet-Area Zones
- Installation and Rough-In Requirements
- How to Measure Your Cabinet and Benchtop for a New Sink
- Common Sink Sizing Mistakes to Avoid
- Popular Kitchen Sink Sizes Compared
- Laundry and Bathroom Sink Dimensions: How They Differ
- Kitchen Sink Dimensions FAQs
Kitchen Sink Sizes at a Glance
| Sink type | Typical width (mm) | Front-to-back depth (mm) | Bowl depth (mm) | Cut-out size (mm) | Min cabinet width (mm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single bowl, small | 400-560 | 400-450 | 180-200 | 380-540 | 450 |
| Single bowl, large | 600-760 | 450-500 | 200-250 | 580-740 | 600 |
| Double bowl, equal | 760-900 | 450-500 | 180-220 | 740-880 | 800 |
| Double bowl, offset | 800-950 | 450-500 | 200-220 / 150 | 780-930 | 800 |
| 1.5 bowl | 800-900 | 450-500 | 200 / 130 | 780-880 | 800 |
| Undermount | 400-860 | 400-500 | 200-250 | Template-cut to bowl | 450-900 |
| Drop-in / topmount | 450-900 | 450-500 | 180-220 | Sink width minus 20mm rim | 450-900 |
Standard Kitchen Sink Dimensions in Australia
Most Australian kitchen sinks sit inside a predictable range. Single bowls run 400 to 760mm wide. Double bowls run 760 to 900mm wide. Front-to-back depth is usually 450 to 500mm to suit a standard 600mm benchtop. Bowl depth (how far down the basin goes) ranges from 180mm for shallow drop-ins up to 250mm for deep entertainer bowls.
On site, tradies will talk in "six-hundred sinks" or "eight-hundred and a half", which usually means overall width and whether there's a half bowl. Spec sheets give you cut-out, overall and bowl dimensions separately. You need all three to plan the install.
A few compliance points worth knowing before you order. NCC 2022 Volume Three, Table C1V1/C2V3b, assigns a kitchen sink a discharge unit value of 0.8 for System 1, 0.6 for System 2 and 1.3 for System 3 drainage design. That's how your plumber sizes the waste line. The same code, clause B1D2, requires the kitchen tap to be at least 3 Star WELS rated and flow no more than 9 litres per minute. WELS is the federal Water Efficiency Labelling and Standards scheme, and that 9 L/min cap is non-negotiable for new installs.
Dimensions by Sink Type and Configuration
Single Bowl
Small single bowls run 400 to 560mm wide and suit cabinets from 450mm. Large single bowls run 600 to 760mm wide and need at least a 600mm cabinet. Ideally 700 to 900mm to leave drainer space. Bowl depth is usually 200 to 250mm on the larger ones.
For busy cooks, a 600mm+ single outperforms most doubles. Oven trays and large pans lay flat, splashing drops and you actually use the whole bowl. The trap with doubles is one side ends up as a drying rack, so usable space halves.
Double Bowl
Double bowls total 760 to 900mm and come as equal (two matched bowls around 350mm each) or offset (one main bowl around 400mm plus a smaller second around 250mm). Offset doubles are the practical pick if you want a prep bowl for rinsing without losing main-bowl capacity. Both styles need at least an 800mm cabinet to sit comfortably. Worth reading our take on single vs double bowl before you commit, because the choice is more about habits than kitchen size.
1.5 Bowl
A 1.5 bowl runs 800 to 900mm wide, with a main bowl around 400mm and a half bowl around 200 to 250mm at 130 to 150mm deep. The half bowl earns its keep if you regularly rinse veg, defrost meat or want a dedicated spot for a chopping board insert. If you've got a dishwasher and rarely hand-wash large items, you're usually better off with a single 600mm bowl in the same cabinet footprint.
Undermount vs Drop-In vs Flush-Mount
Mounting style changes the dimensions you're working with. A drop-in (topmount) sits on top of the benchtop with a 15 to 20mm rim, so the usable opening is the cut-out minus that rim. Undermount sits beneath the benchtop, giving you the full bowl width at benchtop level and a flush wipe-down edge. Flush-mount sits level with the surface and needs precise stone cutting.
Undermount only works on stone, engineered stone or solid surface. Laminate isn't suitable. The exposed chipboard core swells the first time water hits it.
One thing competitors skim over: on quartz or granite, the exposed cut edge under an undermount has to be sealed properly. A sloppy seal lets water in over the years, which causes staining and movement. Get it right the first time.
How Deep Should a Kitchen Sink Be?
Standard bowl depth sits at 180 to 200mm. Deep bowls run 220 to 250mm. Deeper means more capacity for soaking baking trays and big stockpots, plus less splashing.
The trade-off is ergonomics. A 180cm-tall person bends around 150 to 170mm further to reach the bottom of a 250mm bowl compared to a 180mm one. Over years of daily use, that adds up to back strain.
The fix is pairing a deep bowl with a tall gooseneck or pull-down mixer so you're rinsing at hand height, not basin-bottom height. If you've got a dishwasher and only hand-wash the awkward stuff, deeper is worth it. If you hand-wash everything, 200mm is the sweet spot. Have a look at kitchen mixer taps with a pull-down spray head if you're going deep, because the reach makes a real difference.
Material and Gauge: What's Worth Knowing Before You Measure
Material affects available sizes, cut-out tolerances and how the sink ages. With stainless steel, gauge is the spec that matters most. The lower the number, the thicker the steel. A 16-gauge sink feels solid, dampens sound and resists denting. An 18-gauge sink is lighter, cheaper and prone to that tinny rattle when the tap hits the basin or a pot drops in. For a sink you'll use three times a day for 15 years, 16-gauge is worth the extra spend. Browse our stainless steel sinks to compare gauges side by side.
Composite (granite or quartz blend) sinks come in larger nominal sizes and need stronger cabinet support because of the weight. One thing worth flagging: dark composite finishes like black or charcoal show limescale and water spots much more than stainless or light ceramic. In hard-water suburbs you'll be wiping them down daily, which kills the low-maintenance pitch. Stick with a lighter composite or stainless if your water leaves marks on the kettle.
Fireclay and ceramic sinks are heavy and usually need a reinforced cabinet base or a purpose-built support frame. Factor that into the cabinet spec before ordering.
Matching Sink Size to Kitchen Layout and Benchtop
Galley kitchens (two parallel runs) handle a 600 to 760mm single bowl comfortably. Island benches can take 800mm+ doubles or large singles because you've got room either side. L-shapes work well with 700 to 900mm sinks placed near the corner with prep space on the long run.
Standard benchtop depth is 600mm front-to-back, which suits sinks with a 450 to 500mm overall depth and leaves 50 to 100mm behind the bowl for the tap and silicone bead. If you've got a 650mm or 700mm benchtop, you've got more breathing room for a deep sink or a workstation rim.
Drainer space matters. Leave at least 300mm of clear bench either side of the bowl for stacking and draining. If the sink is hard against a wall or hob, you've effectively halved your prep zone.
Undermount installs need a stone, engineered stone, solid surface or timber benchtop with a properly sealed edge. Laminate sheets and standard particleboard are not suitable, full stop.
Clearances, Tap Holes and Wet-Area Zones
Keep a minimum 50mm from the sink cut-out to the front edge of the benchtop, and 50 to 75mm from the back edge. On stone, your fabricator will usually want 75mm to avoid cracking risk. Tap holes are typically drilled 40 to 50mm behind the bowl rim and centred on the main bowl, with a standard 35mm diameter hole for most mixer bases.
Under-sink clearance matters more than people realise. You need room for the waste outlet, the trap (the curved pipe that holds water and blocks sewer gas, either S-shape going down through the floor or P-shape going out through the wall), the isolation valves and any food disposer. Allow at least 250mm of clear vertical space under the bowl.
For powerpoints near the sink, AS/NZS 3000:2018 sets a wet-area Zone 2 around fixed water containers. Where the sink holds less than 45 litres, Zone 2 extends 0.4m above and 0.15m from the edge. Where it holds more than 45 litres, Zone 2 extends 1.0m above and 0.5m from any side. General-purpose outlets are restricted within these zones, so plan switch and powerpoint locations with your sparky before tiling.
Installation and Rough-In Requirements
Cabinet cut-out is always smaller than the sink's overall dimensions. For drop-ins, the cut-out is roughly the sink width and depth minus 20mm for the rim. For undermounts, you cut to the bowl outline using the manufacturer's template, then secure with brackets and adhesive. Minimum cabinet widths: 450mm for small singles, 600mm for large singles, 800mm for doubles and 1.5 bowls.
Waste outlets need to be Watermark certified. Watermark is the mandatory certification scheme for plumbing products that touch the drinking-water or waste system. The WaterMark Schedule of Products 2026-1 covers metallic and plastic waste pipe outlets under WMTS-040, which is what your plumber checks before connecting the trap. Tapware sits under AS 3718:2021 in nominal sizes from DN 6 to DN 50 for continuous temperatures up to 80°C.
Cold-water supply pressure has to sit between 50 kPa minimum working pressure and 500 kPa maximum static pressure under NCC 2022 B1P5, unless the fixture specifies otherwise. If your home runs hot pressure, a pressure-limiting valve goes in before the tap.
All plumbed waste and water connections must be done by a licensed plumber in Australia. DIY is not legal for the connection work, regardless of how confident you are.
How to Measure Your Cabinet and Benchtop for a New Sink
1. Open the cabinet doors and measure the internal opening width between the side panels, not the door opening. Take the smallest measurement if it varies.
2. Measure the benchtop depth front-to-back at the sink location.
3. Measure from the back wall to the centre of the existing waste outlet and to each water supply stub, then write it down.
4. Check under-bench clearance vertically from the underside of the benchtop to the cabinet floor. Account for the trap, isolation valves and any disposer.
5. Allow at least 50 to 75mm clear on all sides of the sink cut-out for benchtop strength and silicone sealing.
6. Confirm the sink's cut-out dimensions on the spec sheet, not its overall dimensions, when marking up the benchtop.
Common errors: measuring the door instead of the cabinet, forgetting the tap hole sits behind the cut-out, and not checking whether the existing waste lines up with the new sink's outlet.
Common Sink Sizing Mistakes to Avoid
- Ordering before measuring. The cabinet dictates everything. Measure first, then shop.
- Forgetting under-bench clearance. A bin pull-out, disposer or deep trap can rule out a 250mm bowl.
- Choosing undermount for laminate. It won't last. Stick to drop-in on laminate benchtops.
- Ignoring drainer space. A 760mm sink against a wall with no prep zone is a daily annoyance.
- Mixer tap reach too short. A 600mm bowl with a tap that only reaches 180mm forward leaves the back third unused.
- Workstation accessories cluttering small kitchens. Integrated boards, racks and colanders look great in showrooms but become an organisational burden in a tight kitchen. A plain bowl plus a separate over-sink board often works better in practice.
Popular Kitchen Sink Sizes Compared
| Sink type | Dimensions (mm) | Best for | Cabinet needed (mm) | Indicative price (AUD) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small single bowl | 450 x 400 x 180 | Apartments, butler's pantry | 450 | $150-$350 |
| Large single bowl | 700 x 450 x 220 | Busy family kitchens | 800 | $350-$900 |
| Equal double bowl | 820 x 450 x 200 | Hand-wash households | 900 | $300-$800 |
| Offset double bowl | 860 x 500 x 220/150 | Prep-heavy cooks | 900 | $400-$1,000 |
| 1.5 bowl | 860 x 500 x 200/130 | Compromise kitchens | 900 | $350-$900 |
| Undermount stainless single | 540 x 440 x 220 | Stone benchtops | 600 | $400-$1,200 |
Laundry and Bathroom Sink Dimensions: How They Differ
Laundry troughs and sinks usually run 450 to 600mm wide and 200 to 250mm deep, built for soaking and hand-washing larger items. They share the same WELS 3-star, 9 L/min tap cap as kitchen sinks under NCC 2022 B1D2.
Bathroom basins sit at 400 to 600mm wide and 120 to 200mm deep. They're shallower because the use case is hand and face washing, not soaking. If you're sizing a basin into a vanity unit, check the cabinet's cut-out spec or counter dimensions in our bathroom vanities range before ordering separately.
Tap reach also differs. A bathroom mixer typically reaches 100 to 150mm forward, enough for a small basin. A kitchen mixer needs 200 to 250mm or more to clear a 450mm-deep bowl.
Kitchen Sink Dimensions FAQs
What size sink fits a 600mm cabinet?
A sink with an overall width up to about 560mm and a cut-out around 540mm. That covers most large single bowls and small drop-ins. Always check the spec sheet's minimum cabinet width, not just the cut-out, because the bowl needs room to hang inside the carcass.
What's the standard depth of a kitchen sink in Australia?
Bowl depth is typically 180 to 220mm, with deeper entertainer bowls at 220 to 250mm. Overall front-to-back depth is 450 to 500mm to fit a standard 600mm benchtop with room behind for the tap.
Can you put an undermount sink in laminate?
No. The exposed chipboard edge under a laminate benchtop will swell once water gets in, which usually happens within months. Undermount needs stone, engineered stone, solid surface or sealed timber.
What's the minimum benchtop depth for a kitchen sink?
600mm front-to-back is the standard, suiting sinks up to 500mm deep. You need 50 to 75mm behind the bowl for the tap and silicone bead, and the same in front for structural strength.
Single or double bowl for a small kitchen?
A large single bowl, around 600mm wide, almost always beats a cramped double. You can wash oven trays flat and you're not splitting useful space in two.
What size cut-out do I need for a drop-in sink?
Roughly the sink's overall width and depth minus 20mm for the rim. Always cut to the manufacturer's template, not a generic figure, because rim profiles vary.
How wide is a standard double bowl sink?
760 to 900mm overall, with equal bowls around 350mm each or an offset arrangement at 400mm main and 250mm secondary.
Does a deeper sink need a different tap?
It helps. Pair 220 to 250mm deep bowls with a tall gooseneck or a pull-down mixer so you're rinsing at hand height instead of leaning into the basin.
References
- NCC 2022 Volume Three, Plumbing Code of Australia
- NCC 2022 Part B1 Cold-Water Services
- WaterMark Schedule of Products 2026-1
- AS/NZS 3000:2018 Zone guidance for taps and electrical outlets
Meta title: Kitchen Sink Dimensions Australia: mm Size Guide
Meta description: Exact mm sizes for single, double, 1.5 bowl, undermount and drop-in kitchen sinks, with cabinet cut-outs, depth advice and AU compliance notes.
